Skip to content

NEW AND IMPROVED Farmhouse Table Details

Thanks for stopping by our blog. We hope this blog post is a great resource for you. Feel free to browse around for other ideas/inspiration. If you like what you see, we’d love to hear from our readers….drop us a comment at the end. Also, we’re fairly new to the whole blogging world and would love for you to join us in this adventure by following…our time is limited but we try to update it often. Thanks, Tommy and Ellie.

It wasn’t too long ago when I took on my first big building project….the infamous Farmhouse Table. I had little clue of what I was doing but I moved forward anyways.

Since then, I’ve built similar tables for friends, family, and strangers. Each time that I’ve built the table, I’ve learned one or more tricks on either simplifying the process or making a better quality product. I look back at the original post and almost cringe with embarrassment about certain aspects of how I used to build the table…..that’s why I decided to document my latest table with more pictures, more details, more measurements, and hopefully more resources to better equip others to make a similar table.

I have to start by giving all the credit to the Ana-White website and Restoration Hardware.

 

These instructions are to create a table with the dimensions 96″x41″. I put together a cut list and shopping list pdf for both a 96″x45″ table, matching bench, and extensions AND a 72″x41″ table, matching bench, and extensions ~~~~>

Tommy’s Farmhouse Table Cut List for a 96″x45″ table, matching bench, and extensions….as well as a 72″x41″ table, matching bench, and extensions.

I purchased all the wood from a local mill. I bought all #2 kiln-dried pine. Here’s what I purchased to build the table, the bench, and the extensions;

  • 2: 2×12
  • 2: 2×10
  • 5: 2×8
  • 10: 2×4
  • 3: 4×4
In this post I will document the construction and finishing of just the table. I will create two additional posts documenting the construction and finishing of the bench and the extensions. The details on the extensions can be found here. Once posted, I’ll update this post with links.
For this specific table, the overall dimensions measure 41″x95.5″x30″. Here’s the cut list for this specific table (96″x41″);
Tabletop
  • Planks: 2: 2×10″s @ 81″
  • Planks: 2: 2×12″s @ 81″
  • Breadboards: 2: 2×8″s @ 41″
Base
  • Legs: 4: 4×4″s @ 28.5″
  • 4×4 Stretcher: 2: 4×4″s @ 38.25″
  • 2×4 Bottom Stretcher: 1: 2×4″ @ 88.25″
  • Side Aprons: 2: 2×4″s @ 81″
  • End Aprons: 2: 2×4″s @ 31″
  • Inside End Aprons: 2: 2×4″s @ 34″
  • Supports: 3: 2×4″s @ 34″
Here’s some of the tools/supplies that I use;
  • 2.5″ Kreg screws
  • Wood glue
  • Lots of 100 grit sandpaper
  • Router with 1/2″ round bit
  • Table Saw
  • Circular Saw
  • Lots of clamps
  • Minwax Special Walnut
  • Minwax Clear Gloss Poly
  • Briwax Light Brown (you’ll probably need two cans)

Here’s some basic building plans that I whipped together using Keynote to help serve as a visual;

 

I decided to start this table by beginning with the tabletop. I take my 2×12″s and my 2×10″s and lay them on my concrete floor. I then mess around with different possible arrangements and look for any irregularities in the edges and fitment of boards next to one another as well as determining what will serve as the topside of the boards. For this table, I went with a 2×12, 2×10, 2×12, 2×10, pattern. The way the seams lined up on these planks were staggered so I marked off one end and cut them square (I left the opposite end untouched).

The end that was cut would become the end that I would line up flush during assembly. I made a mark 81″ from the edge so that I know where to distress/sand. To distress the wood, I take out a few items found around my garage and randomly hit them against the wood to create small indentations. I used to think that I wanted it distressed a whole lot but have come to find that I prefer for it to be subtly distressed. I have a couple of staple marks that I like to create one of which being a knot in the middle of the table that appears old/worn/weathered. To accomplish this I take my chisel and hammer and chisel away some at the knot.

After it’s distressed I make my marks for pocket holes. One of our readers recently made an amazing table and used dowels so I decided to give that a try for the first time ever on this table and I loved it. I purchased the same jig that he used found here. If you don’t own a jig or want to buy one…..no worries, just skip over the dowels and use pocket holes (that’s how I made all my other tables). To create pocket holes you’ll need a Kreg Jig…..hands down one of the best tools you can own. I created a little picture to demonstrate how I drill my holes. Here’s the measurements of each hole (Measurements starting from the flush end);

Pocket Holes (alternating every other from board to board)

  • 4″
  • 16″
  • 28″
  • 42″
  • 52″
  • 64″
  • 77″
Dowel Holes
  • 2.5″
  • 21.5″
  • 40.5″
  • 59.5″
  • 78.5″

Once the holes were drilled, I sand each board down individually. I use a palm sander with 100 grit sandpaper. I sand down the spots that I distressed, the knots, the edges, and pencil marks.

Time for assembly. I use some wood glue for the dowels, place them in, and begin to clamp the first two planks into one another. I use an excessive amount of clamps for this part (it may be overkill but my preference is to have nice tight fitting seams).

Once all four planks are screwed together, I test fit the breadboards onto the flush end and find the best fitting board. I take the other board to the other end. I mark the planks at 81″ and clamp down the breadboard to the planks to create a straight line for me to cut along. I then unclamp the breadboard and give it a test fit.

I created the jpeg below to show you how I drilled the pocket holes and dowel holes for the breadboards. To drill the holes on the planks, I clamp down one of the Kreg Jig accessories approximately 1.5″ from the edge.

Pocket Holes

  • 2″
  • 9″
  • 15″
  • 22.5″
  • 30″
  • 33.5″
  • 39″
Dowel Holes
  • 4″
  • 13″
  • 18.5″
  • 24″
  • 28.5″
  • 37″

I use wood glue for the dowels as well as the seam for the breadboards to the planks. I use a series of clamps to try and ensure that it fits tight and level. Once those are attached, I use my router to round off all the edges (top and bottom) and give it another good sanding. I then move the tabletop off to the side.

 

To build the base, I begin by cutting all my wood down to size (the picture also shows the bench legs that I cut at the same time). I like to begin by working with the 4×4″s and making my notches. Beginning with the legs, I inspect each 4×4″ and pick out which side of the leg that I want the notch to be taken out of (typically it needs to be flat and square….also it’s typically the side opposite of the ugliest side of the leg). I make an arbitrary mark to help remind me of what and where I want to cut. I set my table saw blade to approximately 1.5″ tall and set it approximately 3.5″ from the fence. I make my first cut and double check the depth of the cut. I make all my first cuts on each leg and then I adjust the blade to approximately 7″ from the fence. I then make all my last cuts on each leg. Then I make a bunch of subsequent cuts in between the first cut and the last. I use my hammer and chisel to break out the little slivers. It’s still rough after this so I take it back to the table saw and swirl it around to smooth out the cut. I made a video of this part found here (this is real dangerous and I can’t advise anyone else to do it this way…..but this is how I do it).

For the 4×4″ stretchers I begin once again by making my arbitrary marks (this piece can be a little confusing so the marks are important). I cut the middle notch out first (the one for the bottom stretcher). I set my table saw blade to a height of 1.25″ (I like to have the bottom stretcher poke out a tiny bit). This is the hardest cut to make. The most important part about this is that the cut is centered on both pieces. I set the blade 17 3/8″ from the fence. I send it through once, then spin it around and send it through again, and check to make sure that it’s exactly 3.5″ of spacing. Once that’s right, I follow the same procedure of making tiny cuts, knocking the slivers out, and using the blade to smooth out the cuts.

If the middle cut is the most difficult the end cuts are the most dangerous. I start by setting the blade to a height of 2″ and move it 3 5/8″ from the fence. I do some test cuts to ensure that it then leaves exactly 31″ remaining. Same process to notch out although you need to be real careful as you are making the end cuts.

 

The hard parts over and you can give it all a good test fit. If you make your cuts with precision/accuracy you should have fairly tight fitting pieces.

 

 

Now it’s time to move onto the easier stuff. Banging things together.

I use the same tools as I used on the tabletop and distress on the exposed faces of the boards that will form the base.

Once distressed, I drill my pocket holes using the Kreg Jig. For the top holes I clamp down the Kreg Jig accessory.

Here’s some details of where I drill the pocket holes.
For the side aprons (2x4x81);
  • Top edge of each side
  • Bottom inside edge of each side
  • 4 holes going towards the top; 4″, 24″, 57″, 77″

For the end aprons (2x4x31);

  • Top edge of each side
  • Bottom inside edge of each side
  • 4 holes going towards the top; 3″, 11″, 20″, 28″
For the inside end aprons (2: 2x4x34);
  • Top inside edge of each side
  • Bottom inside edge of each side
  • 4 holes going towards the top; 4.5″, 12.5″, 21.5″, 29.5″
For the supports (3: 2x4x34);
  • Top inside edge of each side
  • Bottom inside edge of each side
I also drill some countersink holes on the inside part of the legs and on the underneath side of the 4×4″ stretcher.
I then use my router once again to round off all the edges of any of the exposed surfaces. I then give them each a good individual sanding.
Time for assembly. I start by making two marks on each leg both set at 1.5″ from the edge (one for the end apron and one for the inside end apron). I do the end apron first, use some wood glue, line it up, and clamp it down. I drill a pocket hole on the top edge because I typically use my Kreg right angle clamp to hold it into place. I also set the bottom stretcher into place to help keep things square.

I then clamp in place the inside end apron. I don’t have holes drilled for these screws, I just drive them straight in avoiding the pocket holes that I drilled (those will be to attach to the side aprons). The 4×4″ stretcher is clamped and screwed into place using the countersink holes.

I then repeat the process for the other set of legs.

I then clamp into place the side aprons. I butt them right up to the inside end apron and clamp it all together.

I then add the supports into place. The first support goes 20″ from the edge of the 4×4″ or approximately 21.75″ on-center. The second support goes in approximately 44″ on-center. And the last one goes in 20″ from the edge of the other 4×4″s edge. (I apologize for the crumby pictures….not sure what happened)

I then center the bottom stretcher and clamp it down. I turn the table onto it’s side so that I can drill the screws in from underneath.

After the table’s assembled I cut out the notches to allow for the extensions. To do this, I find my center on the end apron and inside end apron. I then measure off 10″ from center in both directions and use a square to make my mark across both 2×4″s. I then make an additional mark 11.5″ in both directions from the center. I clamp down a scrap piece of wood to give me a flat surface to run my circular saw along. With that board in place, I adjust my saw blade to an exact depth of 1.5″. I make my first cut, my last cut, then several cuts in between. I then chisel out the slivers and use the circular saw to sand down the roughness.

I almost forgot. I like to drill one more pocket hole through the 4×4″ in between the end apron and the inside end apron. I like the idea of the strength of the 4×4″ and I also like to get a bunch of screws that will go straight into the breadboard. The table is extremely heavy and I envision someone trying to pick up/move the table by grabbing the breadboard and seeing it snap off….so better safe than sorry. (you’ll notice I did this after I stained the table….oops);

Table construction done! Time for the finish.

This is where I’ll give the disclaimer that I am by no means a professional on anything. I’m continuously learning and trying to figure things out. Nobody’s taught me the correct way of doing any of this….I just wing it. So the finishing process is just how I do it. For me personally, I want to build a table in my garage that doesn’t look like it’s a table that I built in my garage. I want the table to look rustic but I also want it to be a high quality table that will last for years and years. I want it to be natural and not loaded with epoxy/shellac. I want it to look good. Here’s how I attempt to accomplish those things.

 

Lately, I’ve been using a hand planer to smooth out the seams, edges, and breadboards. I bought a simple planer and run it along the seams a bunch to give me a nice smooth transition. It’s going to be a dining room table after-all….so I’d like to be able to slide a plate across the table. Once it’s planed I give it one last sanding. Right before sanding I take a damp cloth and wipe off any remaining saw dust.

UPDATE! I’ve recently started finishing the tables using a different method. At some point I will have a detailed and documented post but the long story short is after it’s sanded down I use Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner, then 2-3 coats of stain, a coat of Sanding Sealer, then 4-5 coats of General Arm-R-Seal, and then 2 light coats of Briwax….all with some 220 grit sanding in between.
I start by staining the underneath side of the tabletop and then every nook and cranny of the base, bench, and extensions. I always wear a set of gloves and use real cheap sponge brushes. I go through a lot of these sponge brushes so rather than buying a bunch from Home Depot, I started ordering them online from here. I lay the stain on like a good coat of paint and I don’t wipe off excess. Here’s the first coat;
24 hours later, I then flip the tabletop over, stain the topside, and apply a second coat of stain all around;

Another 24 hours later, after the second coat of stain, I use my orbital sander with 220 grit sandpaper  and smooth it all out. It takes some of the shine away but no worries the polyurethane will bring it all back. Make sure the stain is dry and be careful along the edges and keeping the sander in one place for too long. After it’s sanded down and smooth, I wipe it down with a damp cloth and apply a coat of clear gloss polyurethane. At this time, I also do a second coat of stain on the topside of the tabletop.

The base, bench, underneath side of the extensions get a second coat of polyurethane.
I like to sand down the benchtop after the 2nd coat using 220 grit sandpaper and then apply a 3rd goat of poly.
I sand down the tabletop with 22o grit sandpaper, wipe off the dust, and apply my first coat of Briwax. I like to use the Briwax because it protects the wood, keeps it shiny, but yet keeps it looking shiny/nice. If you decide to use Briwax as well, you’ll need to reapply a coat every year or so. For a more permanent finish you can use polyurethane, shellac, or epoxy….but i would recommend tasting it out on a sample piece first and see what you like. I’m a big fan of Briwax….and I buy it for $10 from Amazon.
For the Briwax, I just use any old rag and wipe the wax on making sure to get it into the pores of the wood. After, 10 minutes or so, I use a different rag and buff out the residual wax.
I then apply a second thin coat, wait 10 minutes, and buff that out.

Now it’s just time to attach the tabletop to the base. I found the easiest way to do this is to use the extensions as a way of helping me align the center of the tabletop. I place the extensions in and use my hand to align it all. I then just measure out a 4″ overhang on both ends. Once it’s in place, I clamp it all down, climb under the table, and screw it into place using all the pocket holes created in the aprons and a few screws through the supports.

Farmhouse Table Finished Product with Extensions. www.tommyandellie.com

Farmhouse Table Finished Product with Extensions. www.tommyandellie.com

Farmhouse Table Finished Distressed View. www.tommyandellie.com

Farmhouse Table Finished Product End View. www.tommyandellie.com

Farmhouse Table Finished Product Side View. www.tommyandellie.com

Farmhouse Table Finished Product Side Angle. www.tommyandellie.com

Farmhouse Table Finished Product. www.tommyandellie.com

There you have it…..the new and revised details of how to build your own Farmhouse Table. It’s crazy detailed and I hope that it all makes sense. Let me know if you have any questions/feedback…….I’d love to help.

 

p.s. You may be wondering…”What happened to the original table?” Well, we sold that one. Truth be told, this one’s for sale too.

Spread The Love, Share Our Article

  • Delicious
  • Digg
  • Newsvine
  • RSS
  • StumbleUpon
  • Technorati
  • Twitter

Comments

  1. Kevin Evjen January 14, 2014

    I did two of these. Thanks for the directions and illustrations. Number one was almost exactly as the smaller one but had to narrow it one inch due to my clamp capacity. Number two I made the bread board edges of the table to attach to your pull out slides to put the two leaves in each end. Then you don’t have to store the big leaf system. it stays with the table. I am not sure why I did not catch on to that idea the first time. Also did full mortise and tenons instead of half lap joints on the 4×4 legs and stretchers. Even mortised the long 2×4 stretcher into the 4×4 stretchers. It was a lot of work…fitting…fitting again…the half laps were a lot easier!
    Thanks again for the inspiration! I do have the Sketchup drawings for both models I made…if anyone is interested.
    Kevin

  2. Judy March 13, 2013

    I really appreciate your detailed instructions. I’m new to woodworking & a very visual person. I look forward to making this table!

  3. Brian March 7, 2013

    Tommy, very nice detailed plans. Gonna start builing mine soon. Just curious if you have ever used another type of wood? I am thinking of using a harder wood but I have never worked with anything but pine. Any suggestions? Thanks.

  4. Tammy & Patrick McMonagle February 24, 2013

    Six years ago we moved from the city to an old farmhouse in the country. We are blessed to live in the midst of acres and acres of farm land and country side. About three years ago I walked through an upscale furniture store and found a table that I fell in love with. It wasn’t in our budget but I knew that if, or when, I got a new table and chairs it was going to be that style. Then about 6 months ago I found your website with the instructions for the EXACT table that I fell in love with, your Farmhouse Table. We never thought about making anything this large even though we have made many smaller wood projects for family gifts and home decorating. Well, I am happy to tell you that we just finished our farmhouse table using your tutorial and it turned out FABULOUS!!!!! Thank you SO MUCH for all your detailed instructions. I have posted a picture on Pinterest and Facebook giving you all the credit for your design. Let me know if you want to see a picture of the finished table as it sits in our home.

    Thanks again,
    Patrick & Tammy McMonagle
    Conklin, MI….. yes, that’s the place McDonald’s has in their nation-wide commercial for the McDonalds’s apple snacks. :)

  5. Kevin Evjen February 24, 2013

    In your link for the cut list for the 8 foot table and the 6 foot table your measurements are off for the base of the 72″ x 41″ table. I think you have the width the same for both the 96″ table and the 72″ table. The 96″ table would have a 1.5″ over hang on the long edge and the 72″ would have a negative .5″ over hang. Unless that is on purpose.

  6. Brett February 22, 2013

    Great looking table! My wife and I are looking forward to starting one ourselves, but we are going to do the 72X41. Is there anyway, if you have one, email a blueprint for that size? Thanks

  7. Penney February 17, 2013

    Hi,
    It’s a beautiful table? Are you selling them?

    Thanks!

  8. michael mcbride February 13, 2013

    I was wondering if you could build me this exact table my wife and I absolutely love it and the color is perfect.

  9. Melissa February 13, 2013

    I just found your blog via Pinterest and noticed the chairs in your dining room used to be on Young House Love! That is soo neat! I’m glad I found your site. You both have quite the eye. Now if only I could get my husband to pick up a power tool…

  10. Meredith McDaniel February 12, 2013

    Hi, I love y’all’s work. I saw the etsy website you suggested but I was wondering if y’all would be interested in making a similar farmhouse table for me? Thanks so much.

  11. Tyler February 10, 2013

    Where are the plans for the bench located? Thank you

    • maureen March 1, 2013

      You can find the bench directions on the home page. Just dig around on their blog website, youll find them… =)

  12. Ben February 1, 2013

    I’d also be interested in the plans for the 72″ x 41″ table if you happen to have them available or could email them to me. I understand that it will affect the size of the boards, but more importantly, where the pocket holes are to be placed. I’m a stickler for instructions and not sure if I could pull this off myself without more details. Looking forward to the finished product though. Are the instructions for the extensions any different if you do the 72″ x 41″ table? Thanks.

  13. Ashley January 31, 2013

    Do you sell these tables?

  14. Tsu Dho Nimh January 11, 2013

    To smooth out the bottom of the notches more safely, use a wood rasp. They are cheap and remove wood efficiently.

  15. maureen January 10, 2013

    You mention you are using 2.5 in screws. What diameter are you using (8, 10, 12…) and are you using the Kreg brand?

  16. Ryane December 28, 2012

    Could you please email me the plans for the 72″x41″ table or tell me where I could find them on your website. Thanks!

  17. Bryce December 19, 2012

    Thanks Tommy for all the great info! I just finished our table yesterday and put it in our house! Its a great feeling to be eating at the table that I built. Having one project down gives me lots of confidence to start the next one.
    Thanks for your service!

  18. Tom December 14, 2012

    Thanks for the tutorial! My wife turned me on to your website. I built my first table using your guidelines – but with a slight twist. I needed the legs to fold up for portability (still weighs a TON) so I rounded off the tops of the 4×4 legs and used carriage bolts and a wingnut. And I have a notched out 2×6 for extra support running on the bottom that’s removable. Would like to show you images but not sure how. Haven’t sanded / stained / planed /routed yet, but the bones are there and she’s strong! Thank you so much for the post! My wife Tara says hi too.

  19. Andrew December 8, 2012

    Tommy,
    I just wanted to say thank you for posting these and other detailed plans, and for taking the time to respond to questions! My wife found these plans back in October, and I’ve returned numerous times over the last month or so as I followed along and built my own farmhouse table.

    Since I found your post (and all the others who have done so) so helpful, I decided to blog the experience myself and document my own project here (http://creationsbyash.blogspot.com/2012/12/farmhouse-table.html#).

    We were able to use this table to host our Thanksgiving dinner, and seated a large crowd comfortably! The whole family loves it, and we’re very happy with the design. I’m already scribbling notes to come up with a way to extend it even further – maybe next year I’ll post an add-on extension. :)

    Thanks again for all the effort you put into making this easy to follow!

    ~Andrew

  20. Blake December 6, 2012

    Tommy,
    I first want to say you did a great write up on this project and your work is great. I just finished my base and top and I’m trying to figure out how I want to finish it. I’m debating on hand planing or using a belt sander. Did you do a write up on your new method of staining/finishing?
    Thanks,
    Blake

  21. Trisha December 4, 2012

    Hi,
    I love this table and have started the process of making it. My table is smaller though. The top is 38×62 while the base is 34″ wide. The width of the cross support on your extensions is 20 inches. How did you determine this length? I’m trying to determine what length and width I need to make for my table size. I believe that 20 inches wide would be too wide. I used 2×10′s as the ends of the table instead of 2x8s.
    Thanks.

    • Tommy December 5, 2012

      The 20″ is arbitrary based on the width of the end aprons. I’m assuming your end aprons are 27″ long, so I would make the cross support for the extension somewhere around 18″….that would make your notch for the extensions approximately 3″ from each end. If that doesn’t look right and you want it 4″ from each end, go with 16″.

  22. Matthew November 28, 2012

    Tommy,
    This is a wonderful blog/project. I am interested in hearing how you get the unit into the house. At 41″ wide, the unit is 5-6 wider than most doorways. Even with removing or un-assembling the bottom stretcher and turning it on it’s side, many people might have a hard time getting it into the space they want. I am missing an obvious solution?

    Love the work,

    Matthew

    • Tommy November 29, 2012

      If you build the base and tabletop in two separate pieces, it’s usually an easy fit. The base on its side is only 28.5″ and most standard doorways are 36″. It only gets tricky if your making lots of winds/turns or going up stairways. Fortunately most dining rooms or kitchens that I’ve delivered to are pretty straight shots into the house.

  23. Ben Wilson November 26, 2012

    Hey Tommy,

    Just wanted to say thanks for posting this. I had been going over it again and again and finally used some of the info to build our new dining room table. Thanks so much and if you get a second check out the table and let me know what you think.

    http://villagecasa.wordpress.com/2012/11/24/farmhouse-table/

  24. Bill November 24, 2012

    How do your bread boards allow for expansion and contraction of the table top?

  25. sal November 23, 2012

    Hey Tommy,
    Do you think you can use a biscuit joiner for tabletop in stead of dowles?

    • Tommy November 23, 2012

      Sure thing. I used biscuits on one…..I just found that I prefer dowels. I like the way that dowels line up the seam…but you can use whichever you prefer; biscuits, dowels, just screws, whichever.

  26. Jay November 21, 2012

    Did you make the chairs as well? Also wondering where you found the longer clamps?

    Nice work.

  27. Curt November 19, 2012

    Well… I started into this project and so far so good. Really enjoying the detail here as well, it is a lot more clear. I still can’t get over that there isn’t an easier way to notch the 4×4′s- though i don’t have a table saw, so going at it a little neanderthal. Regardless, wondering how/where you screw in the bottom of the 4×4 table leg to the 4×4 cross beam. They are notched, but I don’t see screw holes. Do you go straight in from the outside, and then fill them? Are you using the kreg jig for these as well?
    Thanks again, love the table, hopefully mine will look as good.

  28. Joel November 16, 2012

    Just finished with the table, everything came out great. The only change I made was I substituted a 4″x 4″ instead of the 2×4 as the stretcher to give it a beefier look. On question though. I build the smaller table and your measurements had a 41″ base and your top comes out to 41″ with 2×12 and 2×10′s. would you make the base smaller so you have a 4″ overhang on the sides also? I was able to sand down the tops of the 4×4 legs so it wasn’t noticeable but it was something I didn’t catch until built. Otherwise great tutorial.

    • Tommy November 17, 2012

      I’ve got a couple different sets of plans/data…..this post is for a table that’s 96″x41″ with 31″ aprons, it comes out to a width of 38″. The excel sheet is for building a table that’s 96×45″. For the width, I usually like to have a 1.5″-2″ overhang on each side. For the length, I like to have a 4″ overhang on each end.

  29. Mitch L. November 13, 2012

    What size screws did you use for the top?

    • Tommy November 13, 2012

      2.5″

  30. Joe S November 7, 2012

    Tommy – Just about finished with the table but man do I have a mistake to correct! The staining all turned out perfect until I got to the top side of the table. After the first coat of stain on the tabletop I noticed all of my sanding marks (both with and against the grain where I tried to eliminate the ink stamps). I haven’t put more than 1 coat on the top yet. Should I sand it back down? If so, what grit would you recommend? Any other recommendations out there to correct my mistake?

    Also – I put the side aprons on the outside of the 4×4′s. Not a big deal right? Just lessens the overhang I think?

    • Steve November 17, 2012

      I had the same problem, it’s just mine was from sanding out the imperfections from buying wood at a national chain. The only way to fix it is to sand it down better with progressively finer sandpaper. I did 80, 120, 220. You’ll need an orbital sander for this, which you can pick up for about $40 if you don’t have one. It’s either that or have one sore arm and an entire day lost to sanding.

      There are two good points though. If you stain it, sand it down, then stain it again then the knots really pop out and look aged; I’d do them all this way if I wasn’t anxious about the next project. Also, if you sand out all the imperfections in lower quality wood then you have the distressed look already.

  31. Andre November 3, 2012

    Tommy,

    Great detail, ive been wanting to build this table for months and will finally be tackling it in two weeks. I wont be using dowels but I will be getting the Kregs jig; how much glue is used if so, I might have overlooked but are you gluing in conjuction with the Kreg screws?

    • Tommy November 4, 2012

      If the edges are nice/true….I’ll use a bead of glue and then spread it along the edge.

  32. Ruben October 27, 2012

    I’m planning on making this table shortly. I was just wondering if you ever thought about making a china hutch in the same style. Thanks

  33. Mitchell October 27, 2012

    Awesome table! In the new finishing process, between what stages do you sand? Specifically, do you sand after the stain and before the sanding sealer or do you put the sanding sealer on first then sand?

    • Tommy October 29, 2012

      I don’t sand after stain. I use the sanding sealer after stain to seal the color in and then sand to get it all smooth. I’ll then do about 2-3 coats of Arm-R-Seal and then sand before the final coat.

  34. Erin October 25, 2012

    Is it okay to buy the pine rough and plane it ourselves?

    • Tommy October 29, 2012

      You can if you like. I typically buy rough cut pine and have the mill plane it. My 12″ planer can’t quite handle the 12″ wide planks.

      • Marg November 1, 2012

        Sorry for commenting right here, wasn’t sure where to start a new comment. My husband is in the process of making a farm table similar to yours and I was just wondering what color stain you used? I love the color you picked and would live to know what it is. Thanks so much in advance!

        • Tommy November 2, 2012

          It’s two coats of “Special Walnut” from Minwax.

  35. Chris October 23, 2012

    I’m getting ready to start building my table today for this year’s holiday season. My question is that my wife wants to use 2×10′s on the ends as breadboards and still have two extensions for the table. Is it as simple as swapping out the 2×8′s from your plans with 2×10′s and then accounting for this when creating the extensions? Or am I going to have to adjust the legs/frame?

    • admin October 23, 2012

      Only if you are ok with a 6″ overhang on the ends. If you want to maintain the 4″ overhang that I have, you’d need to do some re-engineering of the design. A 10″ breadboard is really wide…even 8″ is wider than most that I’ve seen.

  36. Joe L October 12, 2012

    Really new to wood working-I’ve always been handy doing crude work but now my wife wants me to build this table. I’ll have to buy most of the tools but wondering, can I do without the router? Upon reading thru the above, it seems I only see it used to round edges. I plan to buy the Kreg jig, the bar clamps and a planer and have a sander and circular saw. I think I can make do without a table saw for this project too. Please let me know if there’s anything besides what I’ve listed that I absolutely need or could do without?
    Thanks

    • Tommy October 13, 2012

      You can go without the router….but I think you’ll definitely want to sand and round the edges….especially on the 4×4″s….the ones that I use have a very sharp edge. You can go without a planer as well…..it’ll just require more sanding too.

  37. Joe S October 12, 2012

    Marci,

    Check out this video from Kreg Jig. It should help show you how they use the jig.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LnhMFNqRZ4

    or the manual, http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD10000075AC.pdf

    It would be explained under edgejoining

    Good luck!

  38. Marci October 11, 2012

    Someone… Anyone please help me!
    I cannot figure out this “pocket hole” thing to connect the table top planks! I understand it when it’s connecting a 90 degree angle like a leg and table but to connect the planks is just blowing my mind.. I’ve tried googling it and I only get the 90 degree angle thing!

    Can I just use dowels to connect the planks? Or does it need to be both dowels and pocket holes?

    • Tommy October 12, 2012

      You can just use pocket holes…..no dowels needed. It works the same as connecting two pieces at a 90. Drill your holes, then just lay the two pieces down flat next to one another, clamp them together, and then screw together. The Kreg jig and other pocket hole systems simply drill a hole at the exact angle needed to join two pieces of wood together. As long as you drill the hole to the right depth and use the right length of screw….you’ll be good to go. Once you do it once, you’ll understand….but you’ll probably need to get a sample piece and see it for yourself to see how it all works.

      This is a picture of me screwing together the tabletop with pocket screws. http://tommyandellie.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Farmhouse-Table-Revised11.jpg

      • Joe S October 12, 2012

        Tommy – What depth did you use for the kreg jig pocket holes? 1-1/4? or 1-1/2?

        • Tommy October 12, 2012

          I set the bit to 1.5″, the clamp to 1.5″, and then use 2.5″ screws.

  39. Joe S October 11, 2012

    Tommy – What size dowels did you use? How far down do you drill them?

    • Tommy October 11, 2012

      I believe they are 3/8″ dowels…..and I think mine were about 1.5″ long, so I just drilled the holes to approximately 3/4″ deep.

  40. Marci October 11, 2012

    I’m thinking of not doing the base the same because I’m not sure how to cut the notches and such. Will it be sturdy just with the four legs?

    • Tom October 11, 2012

      I made ours 6’10″ long, without the extensions, & didn’t do the base. It is plenty sturdy enough to handle anything my family could dish out. I did add 4 $0.88 metal corner braces I picked up at Home Depot as extra insurance. Even with the 15″ extensions in place the table is rock solid.

      As far as your other question about size, you can absolutely make your table to suite your needs. You can make it 3′ long. You could make it 20′ long. Simply adjust your cuts and TAKE YOUR TIME.

      • Marci October 11, 2012

        Thank you!!
        Where can I find the bench instructions?

        • Tommy October 11, 2012

          and then a spreadsheet with the cutlist can be found here;

          The notches are pretty simple and I think really “make” it a farmhouse table. I use a tablesaw but you could just as easily use a circular saw. Just mark 3.5″ from the bottom, 7″ from the bottom, set your circular saw blade to 1.5″ deep and then make a bunch of consecutive cuts. Once it’s just little slithers, knock it out with a hammer and chisel and sand smooth.

          If you don’t do the stretchers, I would build it a little different…..I would’t use the inside end apron and instead do some corner bracing from the end apron to the side apron….and additionally screw it into the inside corner of the legs. If that doesn’t make sense, you can just build it exactly the same way, but add some 2×4″ corner bracing.

          • Marci October 11, 2012

            I found the cut sheet thank you! I’d love to have the base… Just not sure how to do it! This stuff is confusing… We are so lost on “pocket holes”. I don’t get what you put in the holes to keep the boards together! I’m sure a screw but I just don’t understand! We are new to wood work!

            Also, not sure if you got my question but where can I find the bench instructions?

  41. Marci October 10, 2012

    How big is the table alone? Without the extensions!
    I want to make this table so bad but I’m thinking it’s way too big!

    • Tommy October 11, 2012

      The table alone is 41″ x 96″.

  42. Tullia Yzzi October 7, 2012

    Just finished ours! A bit darker than yours to match the decor we already had, but I think it turned out great! Thanks for the instructions :)

  43. Joe S October 1, 2012

    Hi Tommy,

    My local lumber yards are telling me they can only provide “Hem Fir Kiln Dry #2″. Is that an acceptable substitute? Also, any chance you can list what size clamps are needed and how many at once?

    Really looking forward to taking on this project and trying to have it ready by thanksgiving for the family.

    Thank you!

    • Tommy October 2, 2012

      I don’t particularly like Fir….the stuff that I used has a strong red tint to it. My main advice is whatever you get the 4×4″s in, get all your other wood to match. If the legs are fir, the aprons are pine, and the tabletop is pine…..you’ll notice a big difference. So, if fir is your only option, I would try to get the rest of the wood in fir (or at least some 2×4″s for the aprons and stretcher).

      For clamps, it would be great to have at least two 48″ clamps and one 96″ clamp….but you can also make do without. My first table, I only had two 24″ clamps but I managed. For the tabletop, I use two at once (sometimes 3).

      • Joe S October 5, 2012

        Thanks Tommy. Very much appreciated. I was actually able to track down pine, just a bit further, but I’ll take the ride. Any chance you are thinking of making more videos of the process?

        Also, I wish you the best with your little baby. We had our first born in December and due to complications on the final day of pregnancy, they told us she would never walk/talk/eat/or even have a personality. She’s been kicking butt since and shattering all doctor diagnoses. It’s a tough road at times but as you are well aware, worth every second. My family wishes your family nothing but the best.

        • Tommy October 6, 2012

          I haven’t thought about videos too much…..but it’s a good idea.

          We’re hanging in there….he’s about 3 months old and unfortunately it’s seeming like we still have another 4 months before we can bring him home. Can’t wait to have him in our home and in his room! Thanks for the kind words.

          • Joe Spause October 7, 2012

            Please keep us posted and anything we can do to help.

            Sorry to switch it back to the table but what kind of hand planer are you using?

            I can’t get my hands on an 8′ clamp so I think I am going to use straps to tie it down at that length.

  44. Amy September 30, 2012

    My husband and I have been looking at lots of different websites for a farmhouse table for our home. When we stumbled on your website describing how you made your own farmhouse table, we were intrigued but a little intimidated. Then, much to our surprise and excitement, at the very bottom of the page we read “truth be told, this one’s for sale too”. We would love to talk with you more about this as we LOVE the table in the pics. Please let us know if it is still for sale and any other details you may have – pricing, shipping (we live in Iowa), timing, etc. We would most likely be interested in two benches. Looking forward to seeing your response!

    • Tommy October 2, 2012

      Unfortunately, that table is sold (still need to build a replacement table) and also I’ve had a lot of requests to deliver tables and at this point that’s beyond my expertise. I typically refer people to an Etsy shop that I stumbled upon that sells similar tables; http://www.etsy.com/shop/carolinafarmhouse

  45. Jaime September 21, 2012

    Tommy I love this table. My husband and I have been looking for a table like this for a while, but have had a hard time finding one we love and/or one that is not $2000. Could you tell me approximately how much money it cost you to make it yourself?

    • Tom September 24, 2012

      I can’t speak for Tommy but I can give you a little info because I just finished my table yesterday!!!
      Your final price could vary GREATLY depending on what tools you have to start with. I was able to borrow a planer, large bar clamps, sander, & JEGG tool. Those 4 items would have run me upwards of $250 to purchase. I finished my table at a cost of $302 (not counting the gas money spent on 12 trips to Lowes). I would guesstimate it took me 20 hours start to finish.
      I can’t say “thank you” enough to Tommy and the work he did on this site. Without his help my table would not have turned out half as nice as it did. Great site

      • Tommy October 2, 2012

        Thanks for the kind words. So glad that it helped! Pretty awesome to build your own table!

  46. Kristy September 20, 2012

    I noticed on Ana Whites blog you said you used a dark walnut stain. Did you use Minwax Dark Walnut or Special Walnut? Love it!!!

    • Tom September 20, 2012

      I can’t speak for Tommy but my wife and I just went through this EXACT question. We bought both the special and dark walnut in small pint sizes. I applied both on a few spare 2′ long 2×10′s we had left over (I changed the lengths from Tommy’s a bit to better fit our needs). I did 2 coats, sanding in between and even went as far as applying 3 coats of poly (used this to test out both satin and semi gloss poly’s). We both agreed on the special dark w/ semi gloss poly. The grain still comes through great but gives it a rich color. I’ve just finished the 1st coat of poly Tues. It looks great!!! Good luck

    • Tommy September 20, 2012

      The Ana-White posting has Dark Walnut. This post is two coats of Special Walnut. I’d recommend two coats of Special Walnut…..it’s my favorite and I’ve used it on the majority of my tables and other projects. And I use Minwax products for the most part.

  47. Adam September 12, 2012

    Hi,

    Great table and plans, I appreciate the details for those of us looking to do a project like this!
    One question, I would like to be able to put chairs on the ends of the table if necessary and was curious how that works with the cross braces in the locations that they are. It seems like it could obstruct your feet/shins/knees in that location. Do chairs work on the ends?

    Thanks!

  48. Joe September 9, 2012

    I am getting ready to build a table just like this and was wondering where you find your 4×4′s? I am also located in the Richmond area. I have priced lowes and HD for materials and was wondering if they are on par with mills (cheaper/more expensive?). I can only imagine the quality is way better. Thanks!

    • Tommy September 9, 2012

      It’s a lot more expensive, but you’d be lucky to find 4×4″s from Lowe’s or HD that aren’t pressure treated. And even then most mills only carry the 4×4″s in Fir. I use Transit Lumber in Richmond.

  49. Andy September 9, 2012

    Looking for some plans for a dinning room buffet. I just finished the table and it turned out great. Thanks again for the ideas.

  50. Ray September 8, 2012

    I was just wondering when you bought your lumber at the sawmill was the 2×4 actually 2 inches x 4 inches thick or was it the same thickness that you would get at lowes( 1.5×3.5).

    • Tommy September 8, 2012

      Yes, it’s the same. The 2×12″s are rough cut but then I get them to dress them to 1.5×11.5″.

  51. Mitch L. September 6, 2012

    Hi Tommy,
    I am excited about starting the table. Just a few questions before I head to the store. Will the Kreg Jig Jr. work for this project? Did you use a powered hand planer or just a “hand” hand planer? Would a belt sander work in place of the planer? I really like the idea of planing it down so the groves are less deep. Thanks again for a great post!

    • Tommy September 6, 2012

      The Jr. should work, but if you are going to purchase one…I’d suggest spending the additional $50 and get the Kreg Jig, you’ll end up using it for every building project you do! Best tool you can buy. I use a “hand” planer, then a belt sander, then a palm sander. I only recently started using a “hand” planer and before that just used the belt sander and palm sander….so it’s really whatever you have available. You can also make the grooves less noticeable by ripping down the width some and getting some straight/square edges. Hope that helps.

  52. Ryan August 31, 2012

    Hi, I was hoping you could tell me exactly which Kreg jig set I would need to make all of the pocket holes for this table?

    • Tom September 4, 2012

      Just my 2 cents here. I built my table this past weekend a borrow a friend’s Kreg Junior. VERY simple to use. I’d never used one before and had it down within 5 minutes. My suggestion though – don’t use a clamp to clamp the whole thing down, just use the predrilled hole in the Kreg Junior paired with a 1″ wood screw to hole everything in place each time you drill. Way faster and easier on the hands.

  53. Kurt Helfrich August 31, 2012

    Tommy – thank you so much man! I have really appreciated the plans you posted. My wife and I (Ashley) have been working on the table you posted and have been having a blast working on it together! You guys are a blessing to us…keep up the good work and we are SO thankful!

  54. gregory allen thornton August 18, 2012

    how much for the table and bench ?

  55. Matt August 15, 2012

    Tommy, I built my first table and sold it before I was even finished! Thanks so much for the plans. I’m finding myself drawn into doing this with an eye for detail and I love it! I’m looking at starting my second project, the smaller version of your two farmhouse tables. Please tell me, on the 72″ table, you have a middle stretcher and 4X4 stretchers listed. At what size/length would you recommend shortening the table wear the stretchers do NOT have to be used? This would save me some time in not having to notch out those stinkin 4X4′s. I also think my table might be more marketable at a more manageable size. I’ve found most of the customers I’ve bumped into want something smaller because their dining room can’t accommodate a 94″ table. I appreciate what you’re doing here! Thanks again for the response!

    • Tommy August 15, 2012

      I’ve done some with and without the stretchers and just keep the dimensions all the same. It definitely saves time to do it without the stretchers. If you forego the stretchers, I’d recommend ditching the inside end apron and instead using some corner bracing (small 2×4″ attaching the end apron to the side apron and then throwing a screw or two into the inside corner of the 4×4″ leg).

      As an aside……From my experience, I’ve had a lot of potential clients email and ask if the table could be built without the stretchers and I’ve responded “yes,” but none of them have actually purchased a table. Most everybody who has actually purchased one of my tables wanted the stretchers. But the size is definitely a determinant…..It’s probably been 50-50 for me between the 72″ and the 96″.

      Does all that make sense? Hope it helps.

  56. Bob August 9, 2012

    Great Job on your table…..It’s nice to see how you put it forth for anyone with very basic tools and experience to make themselves a great table….
    If I can ever be of assistance in anyway feel free to contact me….

    Bob
    http://www.craftsmantables.com

  57. Joe August 6, 2012

    Thanks! This was an awesome guide and worked out perfect. I did the larger 96×45 table and came out great. I had trouble finding 2.5 pocket hole screws in my local stores, so i just used 2.5 coated deck screws which I like a lot for projects like this. Also thinking about using an L bracket for additional support for the Breadboards…Now onto applying 2 coats poly and wax….

  58. Rick August 4, 2012

    I saw on one of your comments that they asked about building one for their yard and they stated that they would leave a space between the table top boards I would not recommend it the wood will dry more and the gaps will form all by themselves, just do not glue or fasten the boards together just lay them down touching each other and in a week or so the boards will pull apart all by themselves leaving an almost perfect gap. I build these as picnic tables and it works great gives the top room to move and gaps do not get to big

  59. janelle July 17, 2012

    do you use semi gloss or gloss for the arm-r-seal? we are building the table now!!

  60. Brittni July 14, 2012

    Hey! Your work is incredible!! My husband and I ate building a house right now and this is the exact table style and look in going for! I would love for you to contact me and see if we an talk prices and sizes. I don’t know that I would need one quite as big but I’d still love the bench and all the detail that the table has! Can you contact me on my email? It’s bwestfall2@hotmail.com. Thank you very much, Brittni

  61. Randi L. June 28, 2012

    Thanks for these instructions! I am in the middle of building the tabletop and have come across a slight problem. I didn’t have a Kreg Jig but I have another pocket hole set. It doesn’t adjust to different heights and I’m afraid the holes are too far down on the underside to support the weight on the top. What are your suggestions? Thanks!

    Randi

  62. Tim June 28, 2012

    Very helpful, detailed, and encouraging….so now I’m engaged in BUILDING a table!
    I bought an extra 4×4 for the long stretcher because after building the legs, I placed the 2×4 and noticed some sag the next day. Plus, I expect it will double as a foot rest. Thoughts?

    Thanks
    TF

    P.s. Would that be sea shore?

  63. Alexi June 23, 2012

    I have to admit: I visit this page every couple of days just to ogle the finished product. I hope to build one myself someday, but still need to get a Kreg Jig, Router, and table saw.
    Great work, and thanks for the writeup!

  64. CJ P June 9, 2012

    Hey Tommy,
    Great table! Did you use a router to round the edges or just a sander? They look really uniform! I made this table for a buddy of mine for his girlfriend’s birthday. I’ll send pics when it’s done being stained. THANK YOU SO MUCH!

  65. miles June 9, 2012

    Fantastic post …..

    How do you allow for expansion and contraction in the table top? Do you back any of the kreg screws out a bit – either when putting the table top together or when joining the top to the apron?

  66. Mike June 2, 2012

    Hey Tommy,
    awesome tables. Can you tell me what you use to keep the leaves from sliding out? what hardware do you use underneath and do you have designs for this??

  67. Jo June 1, 2012

    Hey so I love the table and is exactly what we have been looking for. We are from Iowa which isn’t exactly driving distance for a table. What do you thinkit would cost to ship?

  68. marty May 31, 2012

    Tommy,

    When the breadboards are not attached, how do you keep the “holes” for the breadboards, on the table, out of view? I don’t see them in the pictures. Isn’t it a little unsightly?

    Marty

    • CJ P June 9, 2012

      The breadboards are always attached. The only things that are removed are the optional extensions and they go in via two 2x2s per side underneath the table. All edges are finished and complete at all times. Hope this helps!

      • CJ P June 9, 2012

        Wait, do you mean the holes for the 2×2? Sorry! On mine, the tabletop overhangs in such a way so that you can’t actually see those unless you squat down. I have about a 4″ overhang and with the wood stained with a dark stain, it isn’t really noticeable even when you are looking right at them.

  69. nikki May 27, 2012

    Hi,
    I am in love with this table! My husband is thinking about giving it a go! I have two questions for you about the room and accessories. What color pain is on your walls? And also where did you purchase the chairs?

  70. lauren May 26, 2012

    Thanks for this amazing tutorial! My husband and I are going to be starting this project ASAP! We’re completely new to this. What tools do we absolutely have to buy to build this? Thanks!!

  71. Matt May 21, 2012

    Tommy,

    Thanks so much for your blog. I figure it must get very difficult to answer posts over and over, so I hope you find the time to answer my simple question. You mentioned in your plans and in blog posts about using the Kreg jig or a doweling jig. I also noticed in your plans that you used a Kreg jig specifically for some installation but used the doweling jig for the table pieces. I own a doweling jig and can purchase the Kreg jig, but need to know if I should. I also need to know which Kreg jig package do you recommend I purchase. I’m finding a few different packages containing things I may not need at this point. Thanks so much for what you’re doing with these plans!

    • Shelli May 27, 2012

      Hey Matt-
      Maybe I can help. We bought a Kreg jig for this project. We bought the basic set, around $100. If you buy one, you will not regret it – it is so handy for building this project and many others! I would say that if money is a big issue, you could get by simply with the Kreg jig mini or junior, but we love having the full tool and it will save you time. The master kit includes a clamp and a dust collector, which I don’t feel are essential. The clamp would be handy but we’ve lived without it.

  72. Shelli May 21, 2012

    My husband and I are tackling this project right now. I was just wondering what plane you use? I have been searching online for the best type of plane to even out the surfaces, since yours look so nice and smooth, but without much luck so far. About how much difference do you think the plane could eliminate – ie, if one side is 1/16″ above the other? 1/8″?

    Congrats on the upcoming new addition! We just had our first and it is a JOY.

  73. Dustin May 20, 2012

    Tommy,
    If I want a more permanent final finish other than briwax, do you think using polyurethane instead of briwax will work? Thanks

  74. Simon May 16, 2012

    Table and bench look awesome. Have you built/considered building one for outdoor? If so, would you still use pine and an all weather sealant or something different, such as redwood?

  75. Brandon C May 16, 2012

    Hi Tommy, thanks for the detailed specs! I am looking forward to ‘attempting’ to build this. However, I believe that the length of 95.5″ is too long for the space we are intending so what would you recommend to shorten the length? Possibly leave off the side aprons and sand down and finish the 81″ board edges or would that ruin the other building steps? Thanks!!

  76. Karla May 5, 2012

    Thank you sooo much for your new and improved plans! You saved me from building something that might have ended up in my garage as a craft table but instead it is well on the way to being that big family table that will be the center of countless family gatherings for years to come. As a note I plan on wood burning all 7 of our kids names in the underside of the bench and I will have plenty of room for the grand kids as they come along! Sharing you work is such a wonderful gift, gratitude.

  77. Sarah May 3, 2012

    LOVE this table! Thank you for posting even more detailed instructions and plans. My husband is hoping to start work on something very similar for me this summer. :) How many people can you seat at your table with and without the extensions? It looks like 12-14 maybe? Thank you!

  78. Zane April 29, 2012

    What an awesome blog, well done you two. :D

  79. Wes April 26, 2012

    Ok Question on the 4×4′s. I can only find the pressure treated 4×4′s.. What would be the negative on using them? (no laughing, I am new at this!)

    Thanks for the help!

    • Nicole September 16, 2012

      have you tried a local lumber yard? the chemicals used in the wood make it a greenish tint and one would probably not want those type of chemicals on something they put food on. Just learned this too. :-)

  80. Jake April 23, 2012

    I finished the table Tommy, and it looks great and was easy to do thanks to your plans! I’m getting ready to build another one for my mom. I was wondering what your thoughts were on building one 72″ long, and instead of doing the extensions on the end using table slides and making 2 12″ leafs for it? I would have to eliminate the bottom stretcher. Do you think the base would be sturdy enough without the stretcher?
    Thanks again for your awesome blog!!

  81. Dustin April 23, 2012

    Disregard about the 72″ table, I found it.

  82. Dustin April 23, 2012

    Hey Tommy, I posted back on April 3rd about finding the 4×4′s, any thoughts on that? Also, I think we are going to build the 72″ table, however I am unable to open the blog on the “72″ table”. Did you remove it or am I doing something wrong? Will you email it to me if it’s not too much trouble? Thanks, Dustin.

    • Tommy April 23, 2012

      Somewhat depends on what stain you are going with…..if you’re going pretty dark it may not matter. I’ve heard Menard’s ( I think it’s a big box store……we don’t have any near us) might sell some online. Not sure if it would be worth the shipping. I had to call around to 5-6 mills in my area before finding 4×4″s in kiln dried pine…..typically places only sell pressure treated 4×4″s or fir.

      I’m a bit of a perfectionist and it would bug me to see variations in the stain….so my recommendation would be to do everything you can to buy all of the same type/species of wood. If that’s the only thing available…..maybe stain a sample piece and see how they compare to one another. Maybe on the white wood you do 3 coats of stain and on the kd pine you do 2. Might just need to be trial and error. Hope that helps.

  83. Jennifer April 23, 2012

    Hi, I’d be interested to know the next time you have one for sale. I live near Richmond and would love to check one out! Thanks!

  84. Callie April 18, 2012

    Guess what my husband gets to do when we finish moving? Yep, he gets to dig out all his tools for me so I can build this little gem while he’s overseas. :) Thanks for a great tutorial!

  85. Ashley April 16, 2012

    Just wanted to say thank you for providing such an detailed tutorial! We used it last month to build out own table and it turned out beautiful. I wrote a post about it if your interested…http://www.domesticimperfection.com/2012/04/diy-farmhouse-table-and-bench/. I didn’t write a tutorial, but linked back to yours instead…why would I write one when yours is so awesome? Anyway, thanks again!

  86. Shunae April 13, 2012

    Hey Tommy,
    I am going to build this table but in a smaller version. I am so excited!!! Anyway, I was wondering if you have an easy way of figuring out what lengths to cut the boards. For example I know that a 2 x 4 doesn’t necessarily measure that length. I am going to build a 5ft long table. I wanted to get started making it tomorrow so if you get a min to help me out it would save me some time. Thanks so much!

    • Tommy April 13, 2012

      Good luck on the build. What width are you looking for? A 5′ table….the tabletop would be 60″ total length, so if you use 2×8″ for the breadboards….the planks will be 45″ and the side aprons will also be 45″ (this allows for a 4″ overhang on each side), the bottom 2×4″ stretcher will come in around 52.5″. The rest of the measurements depend on what width you’re going for. I’d probably aim for a 36″ width and instead of using 4 2×12″s as the planks, I’d use 4 2×10″s.

      • Shunae April 21, 2012

        Thanks so much for your help Tommy…you are awesome!! I got my table built and now I am starting the finishing process. I had a quick question about the sanding. I am guessing that after you apply the 2-3 coats of stain you sand it then apply the sanding sealer and sand it again before finishing it with the arm-r-seal. Is that right? Also, would the arm-r-seal be enough of a finish or do I have to use the Briwax too? I have young children and I am going to need a very durable surface that I can wash with water/cleaner. Thanks again for all your help:)

        • Tommy April 21, 2012

          Correct. I sand it with 220 before the sealer and then after. In between coats of Arm-R-Seal, I’ll sand it down with steel wool then wipe off with a damp rag. If you do 5-6 coats it should be real durable. No need for Briwax. I’d recommend doing a couple coats on the underneath side as well.

          • Shunae April 22, 2012

            Thanks so much…I will send you a pic when it’s all done:)

  87. Chet April 12, 2012

    Tommy,
    A am starting to build the table and I have a quick question… Im working on the top and i was wondering how you clamp the boards without it making a gentle arc???
    thank you

    • Tommy April 13, 2012

      I’ve tried sandwiching it between 2×4″s and clamping and it didn’t work too well. Now I lay the planks on top of 2×4″s that are sitting on 4×4″ blocks, clamp each end seam so it’s flush, clamp the sides, and then I stand on it applying even pressure to each plank while screwing it together. Not sure if that’s the best way or not….. But that’s what I’ve been doing.

  88. Dustin April 3, 2012

    Tommy,
    I’ve been looking for lumber and it appears that lowes has #2 kiln dried pine in most sizes. I’m unable to find 2×4′s and 4×4′s though in pine, it seems that they only have whitewood 2×4′s and treated or cedar 4x4s. Any ideas other than a mill? Thanks

    • Tommy April 23, 2012

      Somewhat depends on what stain you are going with…..if you’re going pretty dark it may not matter. I’ve heard Menard’s ( I think it’s a big box store……we don’t have any near us) might sell some online. Not sure if it would be worth the shipping. I had to call around to 5-6 mills in my area before finding 4×4″s in kiln dried pine…..typically places only sell pressure treated 4×4″s or fir.

      I’m a bit of a perfectionist and it would bug me to see variations in the stain….so my recommendation would be to do everything you can to buy all of the same type/species of wood. If that’s the only thing available…..maybe stain a sample piece and see how they compare to one another. Maybe on the white wood you do 3 coats of stain and on the kd pine you do 2. Might just need to be trial and error. Hope that helps.

  89. Lindsey April 2, 2012

    Thanks so much for posting these plans in such detail! LOVE the way your table turned out, yours is the nicest of all the ones I have seen on blogs from Ana White!

    I just have a questions about when you are assembling the top. If you are not using dowels, do you still glue and clamp? Or is the pocket holes enough to secure the pieces firmly?

  90. June March 27, 2012

    Love your modifications, thanks for taking the time to go into so much detail. This has been on my to-do list for awhile and I really like what you added to the original plan. Think I could do those notches on a 4×4 with a circular saw?

  91. Sam March 26, 2012

    Hi Tommy,

    Just wondering what type of hand planer did you use? Was it a scrub or finish planer? My tabletop varies slightly in height from one plank to the other. will using the planer help with this issue?

  92. Ryan March 22, 2012

    Tommy, awesome work on your table! My wife and I are about to start our build.

    One question in your wood list, you list the following:
    •2: 2×12
    •2: 2×10
    •5: 2×8
    •10: 2×4
    It doesn’t say how many 4x4s you need. Can you advise how many, and what lengths? Are there any other boards not included in this list that I’ll need? Thanks again!

  93. Katherine March 21, 2012

    First of all what a fantastic table! We have been eyeing this on ana’s site for awhile and found your table/link on there. Huge pat on the back for the great effort you have put into the build process/break down/photos/steps for all us other newbies wanting to make our own table. Great job!
    Now, down here in Australia it is way harder to get timber and in those sizes so i have a few questions….First of all we cant get pine in those sizes i can only get hardwood in either 11.5″ x 1.75″ or 9.5″ x 1.5″ and the timber guy is looking at me like i have rocks in my head, saying it cant be done??? So if i used the 11.5″ the width of the table would be 45.5″ or if used the 9.5″ it would be just over 47″ what size frame would you suggest? Next, can i mix a hardwood top with the rest of the body/frame & legs in pine or should it all be done in hardwood? Will a pine base be strong enough to support the top? Sorry for the long post i have written just trying to get my head around it all before we start. Thankyou so much.

  94. Mike March 21, 2012

    I was thinking about building this for an outdoor use table. Possibly using Teak, cypress or something comparable w/ tung oil finish. Collecting input / ideas on a couple of thoughts…
    1) Since it will be outside 100%, leave 1/8″ gap between boards on table top instead of glueing together to allow for drainage?, and
    2) Using 1x’s instead of 2x’s and then possibly create a 2″ lip around edge to give the more substantial 2″ appearance (which I/wife prefer). 2″ Teak seems much harder to find.
    Thanks

  95. Michael March 19, 2012

    Tommy, your table is amazing and the way you documented the construction at every step is very helpful. But i was wondering if you had design plans for a 72″ table.

  96. Grant March 15, 2012

    Tommy, had a quick question about your steps of finishing the table. You said you use a wood conditioner, then stain, then a sanding sealer. I was reading the can of sanding sealer and it made it sound like they suggested to use the sanding sealer before the stain or that it wasn’t needed after staining. Just curious if you had any suggestions or tips on how you do it. Thanks again for the info. I like the way my table is finishing up. Can’t wait to get it in the house.

    • Tommy March 16, 2012

      I read that you could skip the sealer on the can as well….but everything that I was watching/reading online suggested a sanding sealer after stain and before your topcoat. You could easily skip the sanding sealer and move right onto the topcoat but I don’t think you’d want to use it before staining. I suppose folks would use it before to avoid blotching, but I’d rather use a wood conditioner for that.

      • Grant March 18, 2012

        Just curious, do u mind telling me what type of Arm R Seal u used? Thanks.

      • Grant April 13, 2012

        Tommy, I wanted to say thanks again for providing these plans and pictures and the great detail. I have finished my table and love it. There are a few things I might do different along the way like not distress it as much but I love it and have gotten some great compliments on it. My grandfather built the table I grew up eating on and my parents still have it. I hope that this table will be around our family for years to come. We don’t have the best lighting in the room at the moment but I have a picture that I’d be happy to send along to you. Thanks again Tommy.

        • Tommy April 13, 2012

          Sure thing. Glad to help. I’d love to see a pic if you don’t mind sending…. ourcontemporaryhome at gmail dot com

  97. Jake March 13, 2012

    After reading through all of this I am excited to start building this table. I just have a couple questions, how heavy is this table and how hard is it to move it from the garage to inside the house?
    Also, maybe I missed it, but what lengths do you normally buy your lumber in for this table? Thanks again for the great article! Can’t wait to see the post on the bench!!!

    Jake

    • Tommy March 16, 2012

      I buy everything in 8′ lengths.

      The table is real heavy and you’ll definitely need two people to move it. I can move the base myself and I can usually get Ellie to help me move the tabletop. I always move it in 2 pieces though. The table fully put together is real heavy and awkward to carry through doorways.

      The bench post should be publishing tomorrow…..my apologies for the delay.

  98. Randi L. March 12, 2012

    I have been studying your table plans and photos and I am missing how many 4×4′s I need to buy for the table and bench legs. I see the cut dimensions but I must be overlooking the number to purchase. I would greatly appreciate your help with this! Thanks!! Randi L.

  99. Rob L. March 8, 2012

    Hey Tommy, I constructed a smaller version of the farmhouse table as an endtable. I had some trouble getting the kiln dried pine (from menards) to take in the stain that I used, do you or anyone reading this have any ideas for me. I really want to make a dining table and bench, but I don’t feel comfortable doing so until I get the staining issue all figured out. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks, Rob L.

    • Tommy March 12, 2012

      Did you use a pre-stain wood conditioner? Did you sand down all the surfaces? My suggestion would be to mark the surfaces with a scribbled pencil’ sand it down with 100 grit paper until all your pencil marks are removed, wipe down with a damp cloth, and then use Minwax Pre-stain wood conditioner. My pine soaks up the stain and I usually do two coats of stain. Hope that helps.

  100. Victoria L February 28, 2012

    This table is gorgeous. I love the rustic farmhouse look. Thanks for the directions and the pictures are very helpful (I’m a visual person).

  101. diane February 27, 2012

    Just finished building the table and it looks great! I am a little nervous on staining, in particular because we used white pine for the entire table and yellow pine for the breadboards (its all that was available in the sizes needed). Any tips on trying to make the stain match between the two different types of wood? Would you suggest using two different stains or the same one with multiple coats?

    • Tommy February 29, 2012

      Not sure…..I think you would just need to test it out on some scrap pieces. The breadboards are already typically noticeable because of the change in grain pattern…..if you add ontop of that different types of wood….you’ll want to get it as close as possible. I’d definitely use some pre-stain conditioner first to get a nice even stain.

  102. Rose February 22, 2012

    Question, if my kids (or me:) would get crayon/marker/pen on the table would I be able to wash it off? Didn’t know what kind of protection the Briwax gives as I’ve never used it before.
    Thanks!

    • Tommy February 23, 2012

      Not sure. It’s a soft finish, so if anything you would just rub it off and apply some more wax. The directions say to just clean with a dry rag. For a more permanent finish you can apply several coats of urethane and then apply Briwax or a finishing wax to top it off….that way it should never get through to your stain. Or you may like the look of the urethane and just leave it there….and then you could easily spray and wipe off. Same with a shellac/lacquer.

  103. The Keswick Blogger February 22, 2012

    I so LOVE this table! It’s everything we’ve been wanting and looking for. The plans make it possible for my husband to build it for us – so even more happiness there! I just have one quick question of you and any other commenters who have built one of these. How long did/does it take you from start to finish to build this table?

    Have a great day!

    • Tommy February 23, 2012

      It takes me about one, possibly two, full days to build the table. And then an hour a day for about 6 days to apply the finish.

  104. Grant February 21, 2012

    Thanks so much for sharing your work. I started to build the table with the Ana White plans and got a lot done but then came across yours and liked your changes a lot better. So, I’m starting over and going to try and build one following your directions. If there’s anything helpful that you could provide, I’d appreciate it.

    I did have one question about your tabletop if you don’t mind. I see your tabletop planks consist of 2 2×12′s and 2 2×10′s but the diagram you have above shows all 2×12′s for the tabletop. I tried looking at it again and again thinking I was missing something, and maybe I am, but from looking at the pictures and the wood purchase list you provided, all I can come up with is that you used 2 of each and just alternated them.

    Thanks again for the plans, pictures, and details. They are great and I can’t wait to get going on this table. Thanks.

    • Tommy February 21, 2012

      Thanks for stopping by and for the nice comments. Sorry for the confusion about the tabletop…..i’ve built this table many times and have done it one of two different ways. One is with 2: 2×10″s and 2: 2×12″s and the other is with 4: 2×12″s. That’s a good eye and you’ve got a mistake….I’ve updated this post with a diagram that corresponds correctly. If you’d like to use 4: 2×12″ creating a width of 46″ my older plans, found here, should work. Hope that helps….feel free to pass along some pictures of your finished product, I’d love to see how it turns out. Good luck on your build.

  105. Rose February 17, 2012

    First of all, your detailed instructions are amazing! I actually feel like my husband and I could do this:) I was wanting to start with the bench just to give us an idea of what we are getting in to and didn’t know how much your version differed from Ana White’s? I would love to see the list of materials and instructions for the bench. Thanks for your generosity in sharing your knowledge and all of the pictures to go along with it.

  106. tyler ingram February 17, 2012

    I seen that you said that you sale these tables but i would like to know where you are located to see if you are any where near to even thinking about buying one of your tables. Really love this blue print. thanks again.

  107. Lori from Alberta, Canada February 16, 2012

    Thank you so much for posting all the pictures and detailed instructions! It’s so nice of you to take all that time and share with others what you have learned and what has worked for you. I’ve been researching how I want to make my farm table and have been getting a lot of great info, Thank you again!

    • Tommy February 16, 2012

      Thanks for checking us out. Let us know if we can be of any help.

  108. Anthony February 7, 2012

    Hi there, my wife has seen your table and insists on getting one! I’m interested in either making one or maybe just buying one. Can you please contact me via email so we can discuss further.

    Thanks.

  109. Sara January 28, 2012

    This table is great. My husband and I have been looking at a couple of different plans and tutorials. Where do you store you extensions when you are not using them? We are trying to figure out a way to store them up under the table. Any suggestions?

    • Tommy January 30, 2012

      We just store them in an empty closet that we have. I tried to figure out a way to store them underneath the tabletop but they are too thick. The only thought I had that way….would be to use 2×6″s for the aprons, make the 2×2″s total length the total width of the underneath side of the table, and engineer some sort of ledge for them to sit on. It would fit one extension pretty easily but it would be a tight fit to try and hide two under there. Not sure if that makes sense or not.

  110. Samantha January 28, 2012

    My husband and I are currently stationed in Germany and I have been looking for a table like this to bring back with us because they are very popular here. If we were in the US I would buy this one is a heart beat but you have inspired me to build my own, so I am going to sign up for wood working classes on base and hopefully have a beautiful table soon!! Thank you so much!!!

    • Tommy January 30, 2012

      That sounds awesome. I’d love to take a wood working class. Hope our little blog helps you.

  111. Pam January 23, 2012

    Great job and great tutorial!
    Pam

    • Tommy January 23, 2012

      Thanks so much!

  112. Alyn January 22, 2012

    We just finished our table. Well, we ate off it unfinished for Thanksgiving, and then brought it back in for Christmas, finished. Thanks so much for sharing your plans. We enjoyed the more chunky look, although we ended up sandwiching 2×4′s anyhow. (ala Ana White) It’s so awesome to be able to build your own table! We did the shorter table with extensions. And I couldn’t talk my husband into doing the rustication of the wood. We ended up buying a high glossy epoxy to put on the top. One coat of early American. We left the joints between the legs and stretchers a little proud. I’m thinking about building a bench next… Thanks again for sharing your plans! We were very inspired by your pictures and posts! Are you selling your table again because you’ll do something different the next time around?

    • Tommy January 22, 2012

      Congrats. I’d love to see some pics…. Can you send some to ourcontemporaryhome at gmail dot com ? How did you like using the epoxy? One little trick that I left out is…..if you have Briwax (if not, use a bar of soap) rub it along the 2×2″s of the extensions to help them slide right in. Thanks for sharing.

  113. Chet January 19, 2012

    thank you i found all yellow pine in everything at menards!! surprised me! im getting ready to start on it, and i got some ideas… i think it would look awesome with a wooden plug look. thanks for the inspiration!

    • Tommy January 20, 2012

      That’s great. Let me know if I can be of help. Wooden plugs will definitely make things easier. Good luck on your build!

  114. Wes January 16, 2012

    When attaching the 4×4′s together. You are drilling part of the way into the notches, glueing them together then putting 2.5″ screws through the countersinks.. you are doing this for the 2×4 stretcher as well, correct?

    • Tommy January 16, 2012

      I’m not sure if i”m completely understanding correctly….but it sounds like we’re on the same page…….just to be sure….I attach the 4×4 stretcher to the 4×4 legs, I use a total of 2 screws as well as wood glue. I drill through the countersink holes on the inside portion of the leg. The holes are just deep enough for the screw head to countersink. Same thing for attaching the 2×4 stretcher to the 4×4 stretcher….the holes are drilled on the bottom side of the 4×4 stretcher except you can drill those a little bit deeper…just no more than 1″. Does that make sense?

      • Wes January 16, 2012

        That is what I thought you had done. I’ve seen this done a few different ways and I don’t think there is a perfect way of doing this. I’ve got all of my pieces dry fit and planed out. I ended up using reclaimed pine from a 120 year old barn. 1″x12″ tops and 6″x6″ legs and 4″x5″ stretchers, everything else are about your sizes. The old wood has so much character, its wonderful.

        • Tommy January 17, 2012

          Sounds awesome….I’d love to see some pics of your finished product. Keep me updated. Ourcontemporaryhome at gmail dot com

          One other thought that I’ve toyed with (I think would especially look good with your table’s character) is to use countersinked lag bolts to connect the 4×4 stretcher to the legs. Something like the Pottery Barn Benchwright Table; http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_o8zpiLDoxVs/SOTmEYYo8AI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/EgsVaV9HHbw/s1600-h/pottery-barn-distressed-wood-dining-table-detail.jpg

          You could throw some lag screws into the breadboards as well….just to match the style.

          I fill my screw holes with wood filler before staining and they’re not real noticeable. Just some thoughts…hope they help.

  115. Katie Bell January 15, 2012

    I LOVE this table, beautiful work! Is it still for sale??! If so how much? :)

    • Tommy January 16, 2012

      Thanks for the comment. I have it listed on Craigslist for $1,000 for local pickup/delivery. Are you in the Richmond, Va area? I can always build another one. Thanks again.

      • Jennifer April 22, 2012

        Hi, I’m interested in this table and am very close to the Richmond area! Would you be able to private message me somehow to get more details on purchasing one?? Thank you!

  116. Ben January 14, 2012

    Amazing table, you keep perfecting it more and more! Nice work! And thank you so much for the instructions, these will be invaluable when I go to build mine. Just have to wait for the outside temperature to go a little further above -22C.

    Are those 8′ bar clamps? Wow! As a hobby woodworking “nerd” I’m super jealous :-)

    • Tommy January 14, 2012

      Thanks for the feedback. It’s a continual learning process for sure.

      Good eye on the clamp…..that’s been my most recent splurge and it’s an amazing clamp. I’ve got two others like it in 48″ for the width of the tables. I bought mine on Amazon for $54; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018S6U7A/ref=oh_o02_s00_i00_details

      Hope this helps you and others when the time comes to build.

  117. Michelle January 14, 2012

    Beautiful table! How much do you sell them for? We dont own half the tools you used so after all said and done it may just be easier to purchase one :)

    • Tommy January 14, 2012

      Thanks for the comment. For a table this size with extensions, I’ve been selling them for $1000 which also includes delivery within a reasonable distance. We can talk offline some more if you’re interested.

      Thanks again.

  118. Chet Fisher January 14, 2012

    hey there, nice looking table… wish my wife hadn’t seen it!! Now she wants me to build it. i have a question, is the table made out of yellow pine, because just pine would probably be hard to find. i work with yellow pine all the time and is splits really easy. Is that a problem for you?? thank you and have a nice weekend.

    • Tommy January 14, 2012

      My apologies for adding to your “honey do” list but I think it can be a fun little project.

      I’m pretty sure it would be considered yellow pine. With it being kiln dried there’s some cracks in it already….mainly in the 4×4″s sometimes in the 2×12″ planks. I’m usually just strategic with how I lay out the wood. Ive only had to take back one 2×12″ that split on me…..and then I had the mill rip it down to a 2×8″. Other than that I’ve had no issues with splitting.

      Hope that helps and thanks for the comment.

  119. Jeff January 14, 2012

    You should take a look at at This Old House online and watch the latest episode. Norm visits a shop where they make a table for the home owners I think you would enjoy.

    I have been following you guys for a while great work from one Handyman to another

    • Tommy January 14, 2012

      Thanks for checking us out and for the comment. I love This Old House…..grew up watching it…..maybe thats where I learned some things.

      I watched the episode and they do some amazing work. Makes me realize how many more tools I’m in need of. Spoke shave is the first on the list.

      Thanks again.

  120. Nancy January 13, 2012

    Thanks so much for posting such detailed instructions! My husband is going to tackle this soon.
    I was just wondering if you would give me an estimation for what the lumber costs to build the table and bench? My hubs has everything as far as tools go except for the kreg jig and screws. And boy was he was excited about buying those ;) .
    Thanks again!
    Nancy

    • Karoline April 14, 2012

      Hi! I love this table! I may have missed where you said this, but was the estimated cost of lumber?

      • Andrew September 5, 2012

        I just got a quote from a local lumber store for my own upcoming project: buying enough wood for one 96″ table, two matching benches, and two matching extensions (plus one each extra 2×4, 2×8, and 4×4 in case of errors) is going to cost me $213.65. Hopefully that helps.

  121. Sara January 13, 2012

    My husband and I are looking at building this table in the near future and I was wondering if you have detailed instructions on how to build the extensions and bench as well….or did I just miss those somewhere?

    • Tommy January 13, 2012

      I took some pictures along the way and will be posting separate posts for the extensions and the bench. Hoping to have those posted soon. Let me know if you have questions before then. Thanks.

  122. Heather January 13, 2012

    Hi! Do you think we could make this as a counter height table ? Would it be sturdy enough? Also, can crumbs get into the grooves between the slats of the table or does the final coat make it all one smooth surface? Thanks!!

    • Tommy January 13, 2012

      It would absolutely be sturdy enough for a counter height table. I may be helping a friend make one for a patio.

      On my tabletops the grooves/seams are real tight…..you can’t even see light through them. I work real hard to make sure it’s this way, because I don’t want crumbs to get down in there. The Briwax also fills in some of those gaps. But at the same time I don’t make it perfectly smooth because I want there to be some definition between each plank….so I intentionally sand the edges down a bit. I’ve built a couple other pieces with the tops perfectly smooth….so it can be done, it’s just a little more work.

Trackbacks

  1. How to Make a Beautiful Farmhouse Table
  2. merrypad » Blog Archive How To Build A DIY Farmhouse Wedding Table | merrypad
  3. Turn Style Legs Table « Tommy & Ellie
  4. Pimp My Place – Take Two | Evan & Nicki
  5. How To Build A DIY Farmhouse Wedding Table | merrypad
  6. Bedpost Farmhouse Table « Tommy & Ellie
  7. Cut List and Shopping List for Farmhouse Tables, Benches, and Extensions « Tommy & Ellie
  8. Ours to Keep…..Maybe « Tommy & Ellie
  9. Farmhouse Bench Plans « Tommy & Ellie
  10. Farmhouse Table Extensions….Must Do. « Tommy & Ellie
  11. Farmhouse Table Details « Tommy & Ellie

Add a Comment

Required

Required

Optional